Thursday, 23 October 2014

Giselle for Frocktober

My second dress finished this month of Frocktober is the Kate and Rose Giselle dress. This is the sewalong dress for the Third week of the month on The Monthly Stitch.

Upcoming Challenge: October

I bought the pattern some time ago and spent my time cogitating and ruminating over which fabric to use. I eventually went with this border print which I bought last year some time. Strangely enough, it's the second lot of fabric which I've bought which my WSBN firend Mel has also bought. We must be twinsies in another life!


This fabric is actually a border print, which for some reason I didn't realise until I laid it out to cut out! Not sure what planet I was on, but...


I found the instructions really clear and easy to follow. As I've probably mentioned before I'm very much a follower of images and then read the words if it doesn't make sense, and this pattern didn't disappoint. The images in the instructions are clear and easy to follow.


I made up a muslin of the bodice first, simply so I could check where the underbust seam lie. As you can see it was just a bit high and so I had to extend the bodice pieces. I extended these by about an inch. To match with this, I took the corresponding amount off the fitted lower bodice pieces. I also found when making up the muslin that I could use a normal 5/8" seam allowance. I used this for the muslin without checking the pattern and found it fit perfectly and I could still get the bodice over my head.


The length of the bodice itself was perfect for me. Quite a change from many patterns which I find I have to lengthen the bodice.

I got quite geeky about the pattern placement. With the shape of the bodice I had to be careful that I didn't end up with the fabric patterns in odd places, so I took a lot of time and great care to ensure that the back was centred, the front pieces were exactly the same and even the sleeves and ties have the same placement! I did toy with the idea of using a continuous piece for the lower bodice as in the sleeveless version, but in the end I stuck with the pattern as it was.


 I also put the sleeves in as the pattern states. I learned to inset a sleeve before ever putting a sleeve in flat and so I've never been afraid of insetting sleeves in this way.

I didn't actually use the pattern pieces or even the measurements for the skirt. I prefer to cut skirts to my fave length (about knee length) and also I wanted to ensure the pattern matched. Just check this out...


All the seams are finished using French seams. The fabric is very fine and frays easily, so this seemed the best option. I used my new overlocker to finish seams on the waist and around the armholes.


As I've mentioned above, this fabric is very fine and see through. Consequently I decided to line the dress. I've lined mine in a very different way to which my fellow WSBN and TMS editor, Juliet, is lining hers. I knew from the muslin that I'd need to either wear a slip underneath or a cami top, so I decided to use some fine plain cotton to make a lining. The lining is completely self-drafted. The bodice is cut on the bias and the skirt lining is a considerably less full version of the main skirt (very useful for modesty in the Wellington wind!) I then cut the straps and the edging on the bias and made bias binding strips. The straps are attached to the dress using bar tacks and the lining is also attached to the dress at the waist. The lining is also finished using French seams!



The details
Fabric:  Fine cotton border print from Arthur Toye and plain pink cotton lawn from Fabric Warehouse


Notions:Thread, no interfacing at all.


First worn:  In Auckland at a conference just over a week ago and here for photos at Fabric-a-Brac in Newtown last weekend, photos taken by Kat.
Changes made:  The top bodice pieces were extended by about 3/4" to cater for my girlies, the corresponding lower bodice pieces were shortened by the same amount. The skirt pieces were self-drafted to pattern match. The dress is also fully lined with a self-drafted lining.


Recommend?  Oh I feel so girlie in this!! The colours are so happy and cheerful - no black for me!! I feel great in it. I've had loads of compliments too! My fabric choice was perfect. It was really hot in Auckland and I was as cool as cucumber in this and even better it gave me a bit of protection from the sun on my arms. It is actually a really quick make as well. Yes, mine took longer because I added a lining, but without that, it's fast.




Saturday, 18 October 2014

Autumnal La Sylphide - in Spring!

I've joined the Papercut fan club...


And this won't be the last Papercut pattern I make either! Papercut are based just across the Cook Strait from us here in Wellington, and it feels great to be supporting something local.


I didn't make up a muslin, which I've taken to doing recently, but I kinda wish I had. The fit isn't awful, but it could be better. The waist measurement was smaller than mine, but only by the smallest amount, so the waist on the bodice has about an extra 3/4 inch applied to it.


The skirt pieces were far too wide for my fabric, so the skirt is not as full as on the pattern. I ended up cutting the skirt pieces less curved so that they didn't look odd. Even so the waist on the side seams has gone a bit baggy somehow - it's not obvious with a belt. I also lengthened the skirt, I certainly don't have the legs for the Papercut length! There's about 8 inches extra on the length.


The pattern was really clear and easy to follow. The instructions are great. They are thorough with clear illustrations. I've seen on some blogs that the sleeves are quite tight and narrow, but I decided to cut the sleeves as per the pattern and they are perfect for me and I certainly don't have tiny arms.


The fabric is a quilting cotton I got from Arthur Toye before they closed. It was originally just going to be a blouse, but somehow the La Sylphide pattern just won over. Cutting out the fabric I noticed that it certainly frayed, it was awful with bits of burnt orange cotton everywhere, so I ended up finishing all seams using French seams.

In some ways the fabric was not the best choice, it's obviously quite thick and stiff and so the neck tie sits a bit proud, but if I tie it well...


The details
Fabric:  Quilting cotton in a burnt orange with star flowers from Arthur Toye closing down sale, Jan 2014.


Notions:   Thread, interfacing for the tie band and button placket, plain matt black buttons from Wellington Sewing Services in Kilbirnie.


Pattern:   Papercut Patterns La Sylphide dress
First worn:  For work just over a week ago. Worn here at Fabric-a-Brac in Newtown today, photos taken by Kat. Where I just happened to be joined by Jo wearing her La Sylphide!


Changes made:  The waist made about 3/4" bigger, the skirt less full and lengthened by about 8 inches.



Recommend?  A great pattern, it feels fab to wear, and I get loads of compliments wearing it. I'm already contemplating number 2 from some viscose fabric I have. So I think that means I recommend it ;-)


Oh and cos it's October, or should I say Frocktober, I'll be joining in the party over at The Monthly Stitch.

Thursday, 16 October 2014

No one puts the Baby (Lock) in the corner...

At the beginning of September I posted all about my sewing room.


We now have a new addition to the family on the sewing table... Something I've wanted for a while.

You mean to say you still have worked out what it is..?
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
OK, I'll put you out of your misery...


Have you guessed now?

Oh yeah!

Attachments...

And Baby herself...

Yes, I finally have an overlocker!

We'd gone out in the morning of what would have been my Dad's birthday to do our civic duty - it was general election day


Get stuff for the kitties and to get a few things from Spotlight (where Christmas had already started...)


Spotlight had overlockers on offer. I pointed one out to Mr N, he was quite shocked, he honestly though it was a large arm thing which attached to a normal machine, not a machine which is actually separate and quite possibly smaller than my sewing machine! So I said that I'd rather buy one from a local sewing machine shop rather than Spotlight - no offence Spotlight, but with something like this, I rather go where staff have time to spend with me.

Next thing I know, he's offering to drive me down there and so next stop...


A girl doesn't turn down an offer like that!

Wellington Sewing Services are down in Kilbirnie down near the airport and have so much stuff in there, not just an enormous array of sewing machines and overlockers, but a small fabric section, a mass of notions, embroidery threads, knitting wools, etc, etc. You name it, it's a treasure trove. I fully intend going back to have a proper look!

I tried out three machines, one Janome - which would have matched my machine, an Elna - which just didn't feel right and this Baby Lock which is fab! It's a bit noisier than my normal machine, but it is so easy to thread. It came with three white and one beige thread on it. I bought some black reels too and have already threaded it with these and it still works!! I can do a rolled hem and all sorts with it. Not that I've tried all the fancy stuff yet!!

I don't have any examples of the sewing so far, but I'm happy and she sits so happily on my sewing table with the other two machines!


All I need to do now is make some nice new matching covers for them all! Oh and get the Singer serviced and the case fixed...



Saturday, 20 September 2014

Gifts fit for a baby

Some good friends of ours have just had a little girl, who was born two weeks ago. When we knew they were expecting a present from the stork, I just knew I wanted to make something, but what I didn't know.

It was time to break out those knitting needles again, even though I don't really consider myself much of a knitter, the gift just had to be knitted. I eventually found this blanket pattern on Ravelry. It looked easy enough and one which I didn't really have to think much about!

 
OK well, I'm sure the knitted toy made it look even better! But the moss stitch edging and the ridges with blocks of stocking stitch were just really simple and unfussy.

I found this yellow acrylic wool in Spotlight. They had a sale on and these 100g balls were only $5 - bargain! I didn't really go for cheap, I was looking for a yellow and didn't want wool, which might not be best for sensitive baby skin.

 
The pattern was so easy to make up, it just took forever, about two months! I decided to go for the largest size, 33" by 31" according to the pattern. This meant I had rows with 173 stitches on them. It took at least 10 minutes to stitch a row. The ridges are made by knitting a purl row instead of knitting. I have to say that before starting this my purl knitting (purling?) was decidedly slow, it got significantly better time I'd finished.

 
The baby's father is mad on the local football team (their colours are black and yellow) and Mum is mad on Formula 1 racing and originally I thought to edge it with black bias ribbon and stitch racing cars and footballs to the blanket. I couldn't find the latter and in the end found these cute little fellas (do they need an introduction?)

 
...and remembered both Mum and Dad's love of Despicable Me. Minions it was! So a couple were handstitched to the blanket. I have to say, it was the best choice ever.



I found some ribbon to add just that little homemade touch...


The second part of the gift came from a Facebook discussion. Baby's Dad put an image on FB of this

Baby Girl Dress Upcycled from Men's Shirt - DIY 

...wishing that Mum to be (at the time) could make one. Muggins here said something similar to "I have sewing machine..." And the rest they say is history! Yep, before long I was presented with a shirt to make a baby dress.

I found the original website which had this image to check out what was needed. Now, I know little about baby clothes, so off I went to the local department store to check out baby dress sizes!

I drafted my own pattern more by guess work, although there was a certain amount of measuring taking place. ;-)


I cut the pattern on the fold ensuring the button band on the front was central and the hem was the shirt hem.


I decided to try to sew self-bound seams. They provide strong seams for baby and children's clothes. Mind you, sewing these seams on the arms was a nightmare! There's not a lot of room there!

A spare button has been attached to one seam

As you can just about see in the photo above, the original shirt had purple binding around the inside neck. It gave me an idea to finish the neck and sleeves with purple binding.


I didn't cut the neck and sleeves big enough to require elastic in them, so it's not exactly like the the orginal on the All Day Chic website. The other thing I did was to remove the buttons, stitch up the button holes, attach brand new purple flower buttons and then stitch large snap fasteners on the inside. Fast removal is a good thing with baby clothes :-)


I'm really happy how this turned out. It's a wee bit big for baby at the moment - she's three weeks old! However, the best thing is that she has a dress to go into which isn't pink! I feel brave enough to try make some more of these, perhaps sleeveless so that they can be layered more easily for the cooler weather.